Interview with René Mathieu

Named the best plant-based chef in the world, René Mathieu is head of the Michelin restaurant of Bourglinster Castle, in Luxembourg since 2005. The Belgian, who has previously worked at the Palais Grand-Ducal, keeps reinventing plant-based cuisine. A true man of his time, he is critically aware of how we eat today, and advocates for a more simple and more intuitive approach to nature. From his life philosophy to his concrete advices to put more green on our plates, a meeting with a true enthusiast!

Sustainability Mag : How would you define your kitchen philosophy?

René Mathieu : My kitchen philosophy is centered around our relationship with food. Slowly but surely we have gotten more and more distanced from the food that is on our plates. To me, it seems essential to reconnect with the nature that nourishes us and in particular to explore the incredible universe of plants that we have forgotten. In my work, I appeal to the taste memories of the older generations and create new imaginaries for younger ones. My signature is to cook with what surrounds us, local and seasonal products that, for some, are unknown and for others, extremely common : pumpkin, beetroot, leek... 

What does your creative process look like ? 

First and foremost it is a question of intuition. Even though we use five senses to see, listen, smell, touch and taste, we also have a sixth sense : intuition. Every living being has one and that is what guides us towards some plants. This is how wild animals nourish themselves. Our ancestors did the same, but this instinct got lost because the food is already selected for us and does not match our nutritional needs anymore. 

Through every season and weather, I go out in the forest and look out for what is in abundance and what isn’t. Where and how do the plants grow ? Are they in a humid environment or not ? Above else, it’s about observing. We attempt to assemble the plants according to taste, textures and colors. We consider the mutual contributions of each product: for example in order for our body to assimilate curcumine, one imperatively needs piperine. These two go hand in hand. It’s a lot of trials and errors. Our creativity is guided by nature.                                                       

Did you already have such a powerful connection with nature as a child? 

My grandparents had a very strong connection to nature, which they passed on to me. And they received it from their ancestors. My granddad was a forest ranger. The forest had no secrets to him. I spent every holiday with him and there were many things to discover and experience. My grandma also passed on her cooking notes - not exactly recipes! - that she herself had received from her grandparents. This transmission of knowledge played a huge role in my life and I am convinced that even on a broader level it is pointless to try to move our society forward.

A few years ago, the Distillerie still offered meat on its menu. What was your motivation for such a switch in your offer and only propose plant- based dishes?

Your kitchen seems to answer to a growing health concern among the population...

Indeed. Here in the restaurant we see how many people suffer from allergies. And it's only getting worse. And why is that? Because our immune system is under constant attack. We need to eat a varied and healthy diet to strengthen our immune system. My customers don't just come to eat, they come to learn from what we have to say. Because, as a chef, obviously I use plants for their taste, but I also care for their health benefits. 

You have to get back to the essence of plants. When cooking with vegetables you should transform them as little as possible. Cooking must remain easy to understand, in other words, if you eat a carrot, you should be able to tell what it is. The carrot on the plate is not a mousse!                                                       

You said, back in October, at the Luxembourg Sustainability Forum that “If our nutritional needs are met, then we don’t need big quantities”. Do you think we eat too much?

It seems like you do not appreciate the term of “vegan”. Why is that? 

Veganism is a lifestyle choice and everyone is free to lead the life that they want to. The problem, however, is that lots of people do not know how to cook and simply go to supermarkets for a cuisine of substitution: plant-based cheese, plant -based meat... They want the vegetarian version of classic cuisine. But one cannot make plant-based meat out of vegetables without transforming it. This means adding additives and losing nutrients. Very often vegans have nutritional deficiencies.   

Here, vegan cuisine needs to be distinguished from plant-based cuisine. In our restaurant, we use plants in their most natural version possible, without any transformation. Also, we make an exception with honey despite it being of animal origin. We don’t see it as a problem since it's a natural product and we need pollinators.

You also said “It is good to talk about plant-based diet, but now it is time to act”. Who needs to act first, according to you? 

The shift has to come from consumers. Take McDonald's as an example, it will exist as long as people go there. As long as there are people who want to eat strawberries in winter, they'll be on the shelves. So it's a question of changing the way we consume : if these products are boycotted, they won’t be on our shelves. We are all responsible. We have to eat locally and in tune with the seasons.          

What are your concrete recommendations for those who want to start to have a greener, more local and seasonal diet? 

Come and pick wild plants with us! (laughs)

The first and most important step is to become familiar with nature. Going for a walk, taking an interest in nature and seeing how it changes with the seasons. This helps you realise that the range of fruits and vegetables on offer in supermarkets does not respect this seasonal pattern. But there is a nutritional logic to the seasons: in summer, salads or tomatoes will keep us hydrated, while in the cold season, pumpkins will keep us firmer. Exotic fruits, for example, which travel many kilometres, have no place in the shops.                                                       

What role do you see yourself playing in the public debate on tomorrow's food? 

Passing on my knowledge is probably what's closest to my heart. For example, next year I'll be appearing in school textbooks to try and encourage young people to put a picture of what a sustainable approach means.                       

In the restaurant, I'm trying to suggest a different way of looking at cooking, one that's closer to nature, and so inspire people to get out of their comfort zone. Of course, I do this first and foremost with a respectful attitude. Respect is a key concept for me and my team. It's also what defines sustainable development, isn't it? Finding a way of life that respects future generations.